Short Excursions off The Beaten Track around Bulgaria – Mountain Adventures 3

Stara Planina (the Balkan) mountains spreads from western border of Bulgaria to the Black Sea. The central part of the mountains is the highest with Botev pick reaching 2,376 m altitude. The eastern part is the lowest and it is hills rather than peaks. The landscapes are diverse and beautiful. Due to the length of the range it is difficult to organise a route covering all major parts of Stara Planina. On the other hand it is quite suitable for short two-three day excursions which can combine climbing with sightseeing in the foothills where there are many heritage sights in small towns and villages.

The highest pick in the western part is Kom just over 2,000 m above sea level (it is not far from the town of Berkovitsa). Kom hut is a starting point for the Kom-Emine route which is a challenge for the most eager mountain lovers and crosses the mountains from West to the East. The most significant site in the Kom range of the mountains is Belogradchik rock formation – red lime-stone rocks beautifully rising above the town of Belogradchik. Not far away is the small town of Chiprovtsi which is known for its traditional multicolour carpets.

Going to the east one can visit Magurata cave. Apart from its natural beauty there are prehistoric drawings dating back to 3,000-1,200 years BC – the oldest in Bulgaria and some of the oldest on the European continent. The cave is not far from the town of Vratsa – the main town of the region where the steep slopes of Stara Planina start literally from the central part of the town.

The area around Lakatnik and Bov is known for the beautiful formations following the deep defile of the Iskar river. It is the favourite destination for cavers with its numerous karst caves some of which are the deepest in Bulgaria.

The Teteven range of Stara Planina is one of the most popular parts with the gorge of Vit River along which both Teteven town and Ribaritsa resort are spread. When travelling from the main road Sofia- Varna towards Ribaritsa you will be amazed with the beautiful sights when the mountain rises from the plain. The forests and rocks on both sides of the road are amazing and the picture is complemented by the crystal waters of the Vit river. Ribaritsa and Teteven are both small resorts and whilst there are quite a few hotels the tourist infrastructure is not very well developed and there aren’t many amenities such as restaurants and bars.

Vejen hut and Vejen pick (2,198 m) are the attractions for lovers of the higher mountains. The road and path leading to them are surrounded by beautiful broad-leaved forests. Another mountain destination in the area is the Vassilyov mountain with the hut and peak with the same name.

The monastery of Glojene is small but its picturesque location makes it desirable place to visit if you are in the area. You would have to take the road to the monastery from the village of Glojene and follow the signs. The road is good but its last part is quite narrow so the journey is not quick.

The Troyan range of Stara Planina is famous for its nature parks and the mineral springs in the villages of Chiflik and Shipkovo as well as the craft traditions in the villages around Troyan such as Oreshaka and Cherni Osam. The Troyan Monastery is the third largest monastery in Bulgaria and is very popular.

There are several mountain routes excellent for one or two day walks within the area. Some of them are:

  • Chiflik – Kozya Stena hut and peak – Beklemeto – Troyan
  • Beli Osam – Beklemeto – Troyan
  • Cherni Osam – Ambaritsa and back
  • Cherni Osam – Steneto and back

If you have more time you can take the routes from Kozya Stena hut to the east to Dermenkaia hut, Levski hut and further to Kupena and Botev peaks. Be prepared for changeable weather and low temperatures even in the hottest summer months.

South and south-east from Troyan there are several nature reserves which are part of Central Balkan nature park – the most important being Djendema and Steneto – where are some of the best preserved forests with rare plants and animals.

If you are travelling between Northern and Southern Bulgaria between April and October you can take the pass from Troyan through Beklemeto to Karnare instead of the more popular roads. It is very picturesque and the views from the highest part are amazing.

The town of Apriltsi is situated in a lovely valley with enchanting views. Although the town itself is not of particular interest it is a starting point for a visit of the highest peaks of Stara Planina as well as to some beautiful protected areas. The Apriltsi area offers excellent opportunities for fishing, walking, horse-riding, cycling and hunting. Apriltsi is spread along the river Vidimska. The town has several quarters which are far from each other and you have to learn the route well before going not to waste time in finding the right place to start your mountain adventure there. From the Vidima quarter one can visit the Vidima waterfall – an outstanding Alpine-looking formation which is most beautiful in the spring when the snow in the higher mountain melts.

The Vidimska valley is bounded by the Severen Dzhendem Reserve. At the foot of this mountain the landscape changes from dense forest slopes into picturesque hills and lush meadows cut by the twisting rivers. The route through the reserve leads to Pleven hut – the starting point from the north for the peak Botev (the highest peak of Stara Planina, 2376 m). Other notable peaks in the area are Triglav and Maragidik. You may decide to continue to the south to the Ray hut over which the highest waterfall in Bulgaria is located (124 m). It is called Raysko Praskalo.

About 20 km north-east of Apriltsi is the Batoshevo Monastery, built in the 13th century. It is less known but worth a visit for the beautiful nature, its amazing paintings and woodcarvings.

At the southern slopes of Stara Planina there is a string of few charming small towns which are connected with the Bulgarian history, culture and traditions of the 19th century. Koprivshtitsa (located in the Sredna Gora mountain) is the first one starting from the west. The old revival houses of Koprivshtitsa are unique and worth a day visit which can be combined with visit to a traditional local restaurant and cafe. Karlovo and Sopot towns are known for the rose oil production. Routes to the huts Dermenkaya, Nezabravka and Vassil Levski start from there. If you do not have the time to climb in the mountains you may decide to take the lift up over Sopot and enjoy the unbeatable views of the valley between Stara Planina and Sredna Gora and the colourful paragliders. This is one of the best sites for paragliding in Bulgaria.

Kalofer is a small town over which the mountain of Botev peak rises dramatically. Kalofer will be your starting point if you want to visit Rayskoto Praskalo waterfall or to climb Botev from the south.

The range of Stara Planina between Gabrovo and Kazanlak is a bit lower but excellent for mountain walking. Gabrovo in the northern foothills is surrounded by few interesting sights. Etara is a nice open-air museum of traditional crafts just outside Gabrovo. Not far from Etara is the Sokolovski monastery, a good starting point for a walk towards Shipka or Buzludja. About 10 km from Gabrovo is the preserved village of Bojentsi and 25 km away is Tryavna, a charming small town which is worth a visit for its atmosphere, excellent small craft shops, restaurants and caf?s as well as its pure mountain air.

Uzana is another beautiful place in the high mountain (about 1,300-1,500 m altitude). It is located 20 km from Gabrovo and there are several hotels and huts. There is skiing during the winter and good walks during all seasons.

The Shipka pass will take you from Gabrovo to Kazanlak. If you have time climb Shipka to see the views from the peak and the monument there. Towards the south is the valley of the Thracian Kings with the tomb in Kazanlak and the tomb Goliama Kosmatka near the village of Shipka.

East of Gabrovo the mountains become lower and more welcoming. The Dryanovo and Elena ranges of the mountains are preserved clean areas with small villages and beautiful views. They cannot offer real mountain adventure but are excellent for a rural holiday in one of the many guest houses with traditional outlook and welcoming hosts.

The Sinite Kamani rock formations above Sliven are spectacular and can be best seen if you take the lift from the town up to the mountain. North- west of Sliven are the towns of Kotel and the village of Jeravna. They are worth a visit for the traditional houses typical for the area and the art of the carpet making (in Kotel there is a museum of the traditional carpets).

Stara Planina slopes into the Black Sea and cape Emine is considered its final point. The most challenging route in the Stara Planina Mountains is the walk from Kom peak on the west to the Emine Cape on the Black Sea. The highest parts of Stara Planina are the mountains with the most severe climate in the winter and you have to be very careful with the forecast and follow the instructions of the Mountain Service.

Leave a Reply